All I wanted from a babymoon was peace and food — this UK destination delivered (2024)

Pregnancy has humbled me, in more ways than one. From the back aches and pelvic pain, to the uncontrollable emotions and cravings.

But it’s the exhaustion that has really knocked me off my feet. And, compared to what I’ve seen lots of my friends go through, I’ve had it relatively easy. My side-effects have been mild, and I have been lucky enough to stay active and not develop any major complications so far.

But given that even the most straight-forward of pregnancies expends the same energy as running an ultramarathon, it’s no wonder so many pregnant people are in desperate need of a rest and a break. Creating new life is no joke.

Babymoons have become the norm among my pregnant pals, particularly the first-time mums like me who don’t have other children to think about.

In the delusion of my early second trimester – when my energy levels were peaking and I could still put my shoes on without groaning like a blue whale – I had visions of swanning about in a bikini, bump glowing under a blistering sun, fresh from a dip in the ocean, mocktail in hand. But as things progressed, the thought of international travel and lying in the heat began to lose its appeal.

Long airport queues, a claustrophobic flight, trying to relax while on a different land mass to my midwife and hospital – no thanks.

But, I didn’t have to look far for babymoon staycation inspo. Turns out, they’re all the rage.

In 2022, actress Catherine Tyldesley stayed at a luxury spa retreat in Somerset ahead of the birth of her second child. In February, Peter and Emily Andre enjoyed a weekend at Champneys Forest Mere in Hampshire before the birth of their third child. Rochelle and Marvin Humes booked a stunning garden suite at the five-star Corinthia Hotel for their babymoon in 2020.

Back in 2019, Harry and Meghan spent three nights at Heckfield Place, a five-star hotel located 45-minutes away from their then home, Frogmore Cottage, before Archie was born.

If a UK babymoon is good enough for the royals, it’s more than good enough for me.

I also had to consider that, at seven-months pregnant, my travel priorities have shifted somewhat. I’m no longer after fast-paced sight-seeing, stomping through cities until my feet hurt, or hiking up to vertiginous beauty spots.

Also off the table is much of the nightlife I’m usually keen on – fancy wine bars, fun places to dance until the early hours, boozy brunch spots on a glittering marina.

At this moment in time, I’m looking for one thing – peace. Actually, two things – peace and food.

I’m in the market for calming vibes, gentle activities, stunning landscapes, fresh air and an abundance of good quality food. To achieve all of these things, I knew the south coast would deliver.

Where to go

We chose the Isle of Portland, Dorset, famous for the iconic Chesil Beach, beautiful walks along the Jurassic Coast, and sweet and succulent fresh crab.

We spent three nights at Clifftops, a beautiful development of luxury lodges jutting out of the Portland stone cliffs on the outskirts of the Pennsylvania Castle Estate. Our lodge was incredibly spacious, with two bedrooms – one with a super king-size bed, two bathrooms, an open-plan living space and fully-functioning kitchen, and an enormous terrace with a hot tub and unimpeded views of the open ocean.

We were lucky with the weather, and an early April mini-heatwave meant we could fully utilise the terrace – eating breakfast out there one morning, reading for hours on another afternoon, or simply soaking up the views and appreciating the cleansing sea air.

My partner even went out to see the sunrise at 6am. I – thanks to my aforementioned lack of energy – did not. The sunrise itself didn’t really materialise due to the moody sea mist that rolled in each morning, but he assured me that ‘blue hour’ was breathtaking.

Clifftops is fully equipped for self-catering, which is what we chose to do for most of our trip. We hired a car to drive from our home in London – which took around three hours – and stopped off at M&S for fancy breakfast bits and all the snacks I need to keep my cravings at bay (currently obsessed with mangos and cake).

But if whipping up a fry-up sounds like too much work, you can arrange for breakfast in your lodge and evening meals. On our first night, we chose to have a partially prepared dinner in the lodge (provided by Arrive & Cook) – which was essentially the fanciest Gusto you’ll ever have.

We arrived to find a bottle of white wine, a rich and creamy fish pie and buttery green vegetables all chilling in the fridge, and a decadent mango cheesecake for dessert. All we had to do was stick it in the oven. Bliss.

Everything about our accommodation – the Ope lodge – emanated a sense of calm. From the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the ocean, to the easy-use technology (Bose speakers, a broadband TV with all the streaming services, simple air-con and under-floor heating), from the firm nap-inducing mattresses, to the clean design and modern furnishing.

I would have been happy to spend the full 72-hours within those four walls. But when we did venture out, the local sights did not disappoint.

What to do

Spend time together

The most blissful element of the trip was spending uninterrupted time with my fiancé. Away from the day-to-day grind of work and chores, hospital appointments and endless baby planning, we were able to reconnect, have fun together, and start to get properly excited about the enormous looming life change that is heading our way.

We turned off our alarms and let ourselves lounge in bed for as long as we wanted, gorgeous light pouring in from the terrace, bringing each other coffee, and allowing ourselves to feel the precious joy of having absolutely nothing to do.

In the evenings, we curled up on the sofa and watched movies – an activity normally relegated to weekends at home – but here we were able to catch up on some new releases we had missed and indulge in some old comfort classics that we love.

Gentle walks

As a former cardio-fiend, I never thought I would see the day when a simple long walk became unmanageable, but due to the pelvic pain I’ve experienced in my pregnancy I am having to limit my daily steps. Thankfully, there are plenty of options for shorter walks on the Isle of Portland.

From Clifftops lodges, you can take a short and picturesque walk down the side of the cliffs (via easy-to-manage stairs) to Church Ope Cove.

Once the hub of the island, the Cove has two castles, an historic church and a rich history including the first Vikings landing in England.

Head to the beach

Spend a morning at the uniquely beautiful Chesil Beach, known to many because of the modern classic novel by Ian McEwan.

The beach itself is steep, pebbly and a touch difficult to walk on – but you’ll be rewarded for your efforts with stunning views of dramatic waves crashing against stone and a sweeping bend of coastline that stretches as far as the eye can see.

Soak up the local history

The Isle of Portland has a fascinating maritime history stretching back to the Vikings, but encompassing centuries of stories of sailors, shipwrecks and smugglers. The Island is also deeply connected to the military, with plenty of D-Day soldiers leaving for France from these shorelines.

The Island also served as inspiration for another literary classic – Thomas Hardy’s final novel, The Well Beloved, which was set on Portland.

You can engage with all of this history – as well as seeing authentic dinosaur bones and fossils – at the compact Portland Museum, or take a quick drive down the hill to the D Day Centre and WW2 Museum located close to the marina.

Where to eat

The Crab House Cafe

Rustic from the outside, this unassuming restaurant overlooking the water is a real gem. Choose from their signature whole crab dishes (you’ll be kitted out with an actual hammer and a comedy bib), or go for one of their more refined fish dishes – either way you won’t be disappointed.

We sat outside in their heated marquee to soak up the views and ate starters of crab roulade and fresh mackerel with beetroot pickle, our mains were red mullet with capers and plaice stuffed with crab meat and vintage cheddar.

Everything was utterly delicious.

Codfathers fish and chip shop

You can’t go to the British seaside and not have authentic fish and chips. The Codfathers was recommended when we arrived, so we picked up a big late lunch to go and ate it on the terrace of our lodge with warm afternoon sun on our faces.

I had scampi and chips, my partner had haddock and chips with mushy peas. The fish was fresh and meaty, the batter light and crispy, the chips were chunky, the perfect level of oily and doused in tangy vinegar. It doesn’t get much better than that.

The Cove Inn

The beef brisket at 18th century pub The Cove Inn was one of the better Sunday roasts I’ve ever had. Generous with the gravy and a giant Yorkshire pudding, the beef was tender, the roasties were crisp, and it comes with a ridiculously cheesy cauliflower cheese that you don’t even have to pay extra for.

Of course, we finished it off with their famous sticky toffee pudding which was dense and sweet, just how I like it. Sitting right on the edge of Chiswell beach means the views aren’t bad either. We vowed to return in the summer with baby for a cider in the sunshine.

How to switch off

Restorative yoga

Yoga has been a lifeline during my pregnancy, helping to alleviate sciatica, hip pain from sleeping on my side, and helping me work gently on my core and stability as my body changes. So when I heard there was an option to book a candlelit private session in our lodge, I jumped at the chance.

Our instructor Victoria – from Sida Yoga – ran a beautiful, calming hour-long session as the sun dipped below the horizon. She had fantastic adaptations for my pregnant body that allowed for a gentle challenge, while still feeling entirely soothing. The class finished with a guided meditation session that left both my partner and I in a blissful daze.

Pregnancy massage

My aching muscles have been crying out for massages during this pregnancy, and my lovely partner has been dutifully offering back rubs most evenings, but there’s nothing quite like a professional touch.

Organised by Clifftops, we were treated to a wonderful 30-minute back massage (mine was pregnancy-specific), from a mobile masseuse – Holly from HBL Therapies – who set up her table right there in the lodge. She knew just where to apply the pressure, and where to ease off, and the essential oils she used made the whole experience feel like a world-class spa.

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